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Advice on fitting a sink.
Please take care of sharp metal edges before and during installation.
During installation, take care to protect the sink from scuffs and scratches.
Avoid straining and overtightening of all plumbing connected to the sink.
Carefully check that the moulding and sink are dead level so that water will flow off the drainer.
We recommend that the worktop opening is sealed using waterproof sealant, paint or a similar material.
The clamping brackets are suitable for worktops of between 28–40 mm thickness. If your worktop is a different size then it may require packing under the clips or rebating.
Marking Out the Opening
1. We recommend that you t the inset sink to the worktop before permanently fixing the worktop to the cabinet.
2. Place the sink upside down on the worktop. Position the sink on the worktop as required. Make sure the cabinet framework will clear all parts of the sink. Using a soft, sharp pencil draw around the sink as accurately as possible (Fig.1). Remove the sink.
Alternatively, you can use a sink template.
3. Draw another line, (usually 10 mm but check your sink with a ruler) inside the sink top outline – this is the cutting line for the opening (Fig.2).
4. Drill as large a hole as possible inside the cutting line. Using a padsaw, jigsaw or similar, cut out the opening up to the cutting line.
Fitting the Sink
1. Open the hinge on the clip.
2. Turn the sink upside down and lay the worktop over the sink. Swing each clip into place (Fig.3) – this is the most effective method, although if the worktop has been fitted to the cabinet the sink can be placed in the opening and fixed in position from underneath.
3. Centre the sink. Tighten the fixing screws in the sequence shown in Table 1.
DO NOT tighten fully at first attempt.
DO NOT overtighten the clips as this may distort the sink rim.
Fitting an Inset Sink
Final sink position
Remove any surplus sealing material (Fig.4). The diagram shows the use os sealing tape, this resembles strips of plumber's putty. Other sinks may have a rubber strip fitted and will require no trimming. If non is provided and you use silicone sealant, then you will need to wipe away the excess sealant with a soapy rag or preferable a solvent cleaner.
Typical tightening sequence of an inset sink.
5 1 3 5 1 3 7
6 2 4 6 2 4 8
8 clip sink.
10 clip sink.
Although the sequences offered by manufacurers are a good guide, you may find that in practice this is difficult to achieve. You may even find that due to obstructions, you may have to leave out some clips. Try to at least tighten either side of centre first and the end clifts thereafter.
If you cannot use the manufacturers clips all is not lost. You can run a bead of silicone around the cut in the worktop ensuring there are no gaps. Place the sink into the cut out, (try and position the sink as near to the finished position you can. ) Adjust if necessary, the easist way is to measure from the font of the worktop to the sink and ensure both ends are the same distance. You may be able to fit some clamps on the front and through the waste holes onto a batton placed to run along the length of the sink. Alternatively, place some cloth or cardbord over the sink as not to scratch the surface. Then stack some bricks, blocks or other heavy objects onto the sink, adjust the weights so the rim fits well onto the work surface, In addition, if you have the waste fitted, you can try filling the bowls with water to add some weight. But check, sometimes this can cause the sink to bow slighltly, lifting the rim off the work surface. Then clean off excess silicone and leave overnight.
How to fit an inset sink without clips.